Bodega Lo Pinyol

The best way to get to know a place is often just to throw on some shoes, a pair of sunnies and start walking.  Not checking a map, not ticking off must-see attractions, just getting out there and wandering where your heart, and your feet, take you. In my case, that often means following my nose, towards the scent of fresh baking, of chilli or garlic hitting a hot pan, of coffee beans being ground. I love just strolling through a place, taking the time to notice how the locals live, how they do their laundry, the flowers they have on their balconies, the way they greet each other in the market, and where they stop to eat.

Gorgonzola, cottage cheese & caramelised onion tart

But sometimes, when you get to somewhere new, or somewhere you've not been in a while it's nice to have a little insight, a few ideas of places you might like to visit, of spots where the food is good and you know you'll leave happy. When I arrived in Barcelona for the first time in 13 years I was a little daunted. I knew there was good food, so much good food, but where would I start? Fortunately for me a friend had visited recently and had received some recommendations from locally based colleagues. Better still, this was a friend who had known me a long time and knew me well. A friend who knew her food. So I took notes.

Artichoke in oil with sun-dried tomato, anchovy & olive

One of the spots on her list was Bodega Lo Pinyol. Located in the Gracia district, it's far enough away from the main sights to avoid the tourist crowd, but well-known enough among foodies that there's a menu in English (for those, like me, who don't speak Catalan, the main language of this region).  Lo Pinyol specialises in vermouth, a most typical drink in Catalonia, and also has an interesting selection of local wines and craft beers.  The menu focuses on small plates and pintxos-style (bite-sized treats on bread) dishes featuring fresh local produce in combinations that are somewhat more interesting than your run of the mill tapas bar. 

Dried-beef roll filled with foie gras

The decor is a little rustic, charming and intimate, with vermouth barrels piled high behind the bar and just a few small tables. It's a busy spot - the first time I tried to eat here I was turned away with a knowing nod and a slight frown - no hope for a table on weekends without prior reservation.  Luckily I persevered, returning slightly earlier (I was still dining after 10) the following night and was a rewarded with a stool at the bar.  Service was friendly and knowledgable, in English or Spanish (again, I'll have to learn some Catalan if I'm to  last here long term) and I had a lovely conversation about Barcelona and the beer scene with the chatty bartender. 

Aubergine, romesco, goats cheese and sun-dried tomato pintxo

Each one of the plates I ordered was all too quickly devoured, and I ordered a second round, which I enjoyed thoroughly, despite the protestations of a very full stomach. Each was just the right size, the flavours perfectly balanced between salty, sweet and oily, and beautifully presented (it was too true that my eyes were bigger than my belly but I couldn't say no).  From the concise, but very intriguing small plate menu I chose gorgonzola, goats cheese & crispy onion tarts, artichoke in oil with sun-dried tomato, anchovy & olive, dried-beef roll filled with foie gras, and from the pintxos menu, aubergine, romesco, goats cheese and sun-dried tomato, and guacamole with shavings of Iberian ham. If you think this sounds decadent, you're right. This was no dance till dawn Barcelona all-nighter, this was back to my hotel to stretch out and a long sleep in the following morning. No regrets.  

Guacamole with shavings of Iberian ham pintxo

Were it not my last night in Barcelona I would have returned the following day.  Thankfully I'm back here now and it's definitely on the cards for a rerun with one of my visitors over the next couple of weeks. Do yourself a favour and add this to your list next time you're in town.